I have to recommend a class I have been taking on patternreview.com. It is called "Bust Adjustments"
Here is a description of the class from patternreview :
"Most commercial patterns are developed for a bust with a B cup. If your bust size is larger or smaller than a B cup, it's probable that you will need to alter your pattern to reflect your bust size. If this is your situation, making a full bust adjustment (FBA) or a small bust adjustment (SBA) to the pattern puts you one step closer to getting a pattern that fits.
In this 7-lesson class, you will learn the concepts of making a FBA and SBA, as well as how to actually make the pattern manipulation for side bust darts, armscye princess lines, shoulder princess lines, and bodices with raglan sleeves. Several variations of the traditional FBA/SBA are included. In addition, one lesson will cover the basic patternmaking practices of truing dart legs, walking seams, and making parallel darts."
Anyway, it has been invaluable in walking me through the whole pattern adjustment process. Full bust or small bust adjustments are actually pretty simple after taking this class. Sarah Veblen is the instructor and there are lessons, question boards and online chats. The class is about 30 dollars but it's well worth it as I have gone to many blogs and not found something that was easy for me to understand.
A pattern after a full bust adjustment |
"Most commercial patterns are developed for a bust with a B cup. If your bust size is larger or smaller than a B cup, it's probable that you will need to alter your pattern to reflect your bust size. If this is your situation, making a full bust adjustment (FBA) or a small bust adjustment (SBA) to the pattern puts you one step closer to getting a pattern that fits.
In this 7-lesson class, you will learn the concepts of making a FBA and SBA, as well as how to actually make the pattern manipulation for side bust darts, armscye princess lines, shoulder princess lines, and bodices with raglan sleeves. Several variations of the traditional FBA/SBA are included. In addition, one lesson will cover the basic patternmaking practices of truing dart legs, walking seams, and making parallel darts."
Anyway, it has been invaluable in walking me through the whole pattern adjustment process. Full bust or small bust adjustments are actually pretty simple after taking this class. Sarah Veblen is the instructor and there are lessons, question boards and online chats. The class is about 30 dollars but it's well worth it as I have gone to many blogs and not found something that was easy for me to understand.