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Tuesday, January 29, 2013

McCall's 6440 Black Slim Pants

McCall's 6440

I am now OK with these pants but that's only after  a lot of tweaking. First off I cut the pants in the recommended size 12 . I could see right off they were going to be baggy on me. They are probably more like a size 8 now. So if you are planning on making these, cut them in a smaller size.
The blouse I made a couple of years ago from some silk by Anna Sui. I still wear it a lot.


Simplicity 2599 from late 2010.
I placed a pair of stretch cargo woven pants I like on top of the pattern and traced around them onto the pattern. I ended up taking several inches off of the width of the legs, tapering them more.
Then I had to spend some time shaving down the length of the rise which was way too long and looked weird.
 It took a bit of work to get these pants to look similar to the envelope.

When I laid my good fitting pant leg on the cut out pattern I could see how much larger the cut out pants are.....
This is a great way to get an idea about how a pattern will fit before you even sew it up.

The good thing about this pattern is there are extensive instructions inside for how to adjust the fit of pants and I learned about lovely things like crotch rises (ick... ) and butt fitting by studying the instructions written by Patty Palmer, the author of  a well known fitting book Fit For Real People.

The pants have a really high waistline. Although high waist lines are coming back in fashion I feel like this is just too high. What do you think? Maybe I will get used to it. 
There are some wrinkles in the rise but they were much worse before. If you get wrinkles across the front of your pants it means you need to let out the seam in the middle. And if the rise goes down too low you need to scoop out the bottom part of the rise. Pants fitting is very complicated but I think I am getting the hang of it. There is a lot to learn and there are some ladies on the Pattern review boards who are real experts. I have always been lazy about making pants and stuck to easy thing for myself, like skirts and dresses.
But this is my year to challenge myself more.
Here is a link about fitting pants with a rise that hangs too low. 
Notice how I have gingerly avoided using the word crotch. I just hate that word! 

Now here is the bad part. I sort of hate these seams going up the back of the legs. So 90's! Although having the seam going up the middle makes the pants easier to fit around the derriere and hips, I think it looks ugly.

Yes, I am brave to show a picture of my behind like this, but I love my readers so much I want them to know the good, the bad, and the ugly about every project!

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8 comments:

  1. You are so prolific! Pants are really hard and those turned out darling. I took a pants fitting class but still haven't ventured into sewing them.

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  2. Brave indeed! Great fit! I do think they'd be too high waisted for me.

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  4. Nice job! I have been thinking about attempting some pants for summer, but am nervous. Being short, I love high waists and like how they make my legs look longer. I have to agree on the seams in the back, though. I couldn't put my finger on it until you said 90s. A little bit dated. But still, a really inspiring accomplishment. Thanks for sharing so thoroughly!

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  5. I made a pair of pants using the same patter, yes the waistline does sit a little too high, and I did have to go down 2 sizes to get a better fit for me, but what bothered me the most is that seam going down the back side, I really don't care for that at all, it irritates me! But your pants look really cute on you.

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  6. Great job getting the pants to fit so well.. Sorry the pattern was giving you trouble.
    Love,love the top too.

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  7. You did a marvelous job with the fit of these pants. I think they are a bit high-waisted, and the seams might be a bit more bothersome if the fabric was lighter. With the black, I didn't really notice them at first. Overall, I like them!

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  8. Impressive! I prefer a high waist and think it's flattering on you. But it's all about individual preference. I'm planning to try my hand at two pants patterns this Spring - Colette's Clover and Sewaholic Thurlow. I've finished a muslin for the Clover, but man, pants are a tough nut to crack! Thanks for the resources!

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